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69Mach351
2012-03-19, 02:26 PM
now that I have one more car out of the garage, I am thinking about painting the floor in the garage, possibly the walls, putting down some trim and doing some more cabinets. I was wondering what everyone recommends.

I have done the (I believe it was rustoleum) epoxy coating before, but only lived in the house for another two years. It held up pretty well with minimum prep work. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I don't want to be doing this every 3-4 years.

I have also looked at race-deck flooring, but have never seen it in person. I would prefer something that is not $4+sq/ft, as I have 3 garage stalls. It would be convenient to have a floor like this though, so I could use it immediately after putting it down.

k20z1
2012-03-19, 06:05 PM
now that I have one more car out of the garage, I am thinking about painting the floor in the garage, possibly the walls, putting down some trim and doing some more cabinets. I was wondering what everyone recommends.

I have done the (I believe it was rustoleum) epoxy coating before, but only lived in the house for another two years. It held up pretty well with minimum prep work. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I don't want to be doing this every 3-4 years.

I have also looked at race-deck flooring, but have never seen it in person. I would prefer something that is not $4+sq/ft, as I have 3 garage stalls. It would be convenient to have a floor like this though, so I could use it immediately after putting it down.

Don't forget lighting.

Rustoleum Epoxy is just fine as long as you use the solvent based stuff, not the water based stuff. In the KC area, Nuts'n'Bolts True Value stores carry it and nobody else that I know of. Can be found online for approx $100/kit. In my experience, each colored kit covers 200sqft and the clearcoat covers 500sqft.

Race Deck only looks good for 4 years or so and starts breaking down after around the 6 year mark. The white tiles stain quickly.

You could visit GarageJournal.com. It's a decent site, but it's run by ban-happy dickheads that are very up-tight and they have weird politics.

69Mach351
2012-03-20, 08:29 AM
Will have to look into the solvent based stuff. Already checking out lighting as well. I will probably save my time on garage journal, I am sure I would be ban practice in short time :D

Camaro84
2012-03-20, 08:40 PM
Grind and polish the floor. Looks 10 times better than a coated floor. You can rent the equipment from Bledsoes <spelling. Its a maintenance free floor. Won't scratch. Easy to clean. I do this for a living. I'm going to do this to my basement/garage.

doomi
2012-03-20, 08:53 PM
I have race deck flooring and it gets dirty pretty fucking quick... But it is durable as shit and nice to work on. I do usually pull into the driveway each summer and power wash it.

As said, lighting is important... I used a ton of fluorescents in two and four bulb configurations, but I kind of had to as I painted all the walls and ceiling black.

Plenty of storage is essential as well as lots of outlets on their own circuit.

69Mach351
2012-03-21, 07:42 AM
I have looked at the race-deck tiles and similar ones. If I choose a floor like that is going to cost between $1400-$2800+, depending on the brand I would go with.

I don't mind the polishing ideah, but I would not want to do it myself. Is it expensive to get done (I am in Topeka)? I looked around at it, how do you get into the corners? All the equipment is round.

The only downside to a good epoxy, is that I would likely have to do the garage in 2 stages, stoping at one of the sawed lines, so we can move things back and forth.

I am estimating that it is somewhere around 650ish square feet.

k20z1
2012-03-21, 08:11 PM
I don't mind the polishing ideah, but I would not want to do it myself. Is it expensive to get done (I am in Topeka)? I looked around at it, how do you get into the corners? All the equipment is round.

Polishing looks nice and is ok for a retail space but it is not a sealed surface. You can (and will) stain it with oil, paint, and other fluids.

My floor is epoxied. I have a car that drips 1-2 drops of oil every night. I've had oil spots on the floor for, literally, months between cleanings and it's not stained. Just wipe the oil up with a paper towel, hit the spot with a degreaser (Simple Green is good) and you're done.

I've gotten spray paint, latex paint, wood stain, polyurethane, brake fluid, brake cleaner, anti-freeze, everything on the floor. No stains. Cleans up with a bucket of hot water, Dawn dish soap, and a deck scrubbing brush.

If epoxy held up to welding slag, it would be the perfect garage surface.

KansasRSX
2012-03-21, 09:09 PM
Polishing looks nice and is ok for a retail space but it is not a sealed surface. You can (and will) stain it with oil, paint, and other fluids.

My floor is epoxied. I have a car that drips 1-2 drops of oil every night. I've had oil spots on the floor for, literally, months between cleanings and it's not stained. Just wipe the oil up with a paper towel, hit the spot with a degreaser (Simple Green is good) and you're done.

I've gotten spray paint, latex paint, wood stain, polyurethane, brake fluid, brake cleaner, anti-freeze, everything on the floor. No stains. Cleans up with a bucket of hot water, Dawn dish soap, and a deck scrubbing brush.

If epoxy held up to welding slag, it would be the perfect garage surface.

could you link to the product you used?

Camaro84
2012-03-21, 09:31 PM
You use a small 4in hand grinder for the the corners and for sealing it you could use like ls guard. So yes you can seal a polished floor.

Edit. Also for good adhesion. Its best to scuff the floor with a grinder for your floor coatings like epoxys or whatnot

69Mach351
2012-03-27, 08:47 AM
Has anyone tried the acid etching before? That is what I have in my office. It has to be touched up every once in awhile, which is easy, but it doesn't flake off, which is nice. It is also something that could be done fairly quick and relatively inexpensively.

I also ended up getting six 2 bulb 4' T8 light fixtures. It is replacing six single bulb fixtures that have the engergy efficient bulbs in them, so I am guessing it will make quite a difference.

k20z1
2012-03-27, 09:55 PM
could you link to the product you used?

2 coats of this for the color:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=14

1 coat of this for the clear:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=13

Has anyone tried the acid etching before? That is what I have in my office. It has to be touched up every once in awhile, which is easy, but it doesn't flake off, which is nice. It is also something that could be done fairly quick and relatively inexpensively.


I think you're referring to concrete staining. Acid etching is a prep-step for epoxy application. Stain uses acid also, but it's a different process. Concrete stain is an appearance thing. Doesn't provide any protection/sealing/etc. You'd have to do your own research, but my understanding of the process is that you can get some really cool effects... IF you know how to do it. It seems like it's similar to tie-dye. I mean, if you leave it on too long/not long enough, don't swirl it correctly, etc, you could get a funny looking floor.

If you Google "stained concrete" what you have to remember is all those floors were sealed after the staining. That's why they're glossy. Depending on the contractor, they'll be sealed with epoxy or urethane or some heavy-duty contractor grade shit.

69Mach351
2012-03-28, 07:48 AM
could you link to the product you used?

How long have you had it? I have heard the one downfall is salt/water in the winter.

Edit-meant for rust oleum guy.

I made a lazy post from my iPhone

69Mach351
2012-03-28, 07:55 AM
2 coats of this for the color:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=14

1 coat of this for the clear:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=13



I think you're referring to concrete staining. Acid etching is a prep-step for epoxy application. Stain uses acid also, but it's a different process. Concrete stain is an appearance thing. Doesn't provide any protection/sealing/etc. You'd have to do your own research, but my understanding of the process is that you can get some really cool effects... IF you know how to do it. It seems like it's similar to tie-dye. I mean, if you leave it on too long/not long enough, don't swirl it correctly, etc, you could get a funny looking floor.

If you Google "stained concrete" what you have to remember is all those floors were sealed after the staining. That's why they're glossy. Depending on the contractor, they'll be sealed with epoxy or urethane or some heavy-duty contractor grade shit.
I think we were both on the right path. I found it yesterday at ACE. It is an acid stain. It said to spray it in (using a basic jug sprayer is fine), let it dry for about 4 hours, if you want it marbled, hit areas again, let it dry, the neutralize w baking soda and water, then mop or vac up. You are right, it still needs the sealer.

The gallon of acid went a lot further than the sealer. Both were $80/gallon, but can be had cheaper if you shop around.

k20z1
2012-03-28, 09:12 AM
I've had my floor down just over 3 years (3 Missouri winters). It's a high-gloss surface and, yes, the tracks where the cars roll in and out every single day are less glossy than the un-driven on areas. There's still some gloss on them, but they do show wear. The 99% of the garage that doesn't get driven on (including the area that my one car drips oil on daily) still literally looks new when clean.

Salt and water don't matter, it's the sand. I mentioned the gloss is wearing; I think if I took better care to keep the sand cleaned up during the winter, the floor would look better.

Weaknesses are sand, heavy shocks (I accidentally hit it w/ a hammer while doing some framing and took a small divot of concrete+epoxy), dragging sharp things (basically anything 100+ lbs, metal, w/ corners), and welding. So as long as you don't drag full filing cabinets on it, weld, and drive in/out on road sand for 3 months, it'll be fine for a loooong time.

Oh, people also complain about hot tire pick-up, but I've seen no problems at all. (shrugs)

As far as dragging, I've got a 200lbs workbench w/ wooden legs. I drag that thing around all the time, no damage. Epoxy is harder than wood.

I think we were both on the right path. I found it yesterday at ACE. It is an acid stain. It said to spray it in (using a basic jug sprayer is fine), let it dry for about 4 hours, if you want it marbled, hit areas again, let it dry, the neutralize w baking soda and water, then mop or vac up. You are right, it still needs the sealer.

The gallon of acid went a lot further than the sealer. Both were $80/gallon, but can be had cheaper if you shop around.

$80/gal is actually right in line w/ mid-priced epoxy. In my experience, the stuff I used covered a bit over 200sqft/gal. For the color. Each $100 kit makes 2 gallons and I used 3 kits for 2 coats on my 625sqft (625 * 2 coats = 1250 sqft). Coverage came out perfect. The clear sealer covers about 500sqft/gal. Each $100 kit makes 1 gallon. I only used one kit and it came out too thin in a few spots and I also missed some spots (hard to see gloss on gloss). If I did it again, I would mix 2 kits and waste a half gallon.

So as far as cost, I've got around $400+tax in epoxy materials, maybe $50 in tools, and another $100 in prep materials (degreasers, acid etching, crack fillers). So call it $550 / 625sft = $0.88/sqft.

69Mach351
2012-03-28, 09:20 AM
I may reconsider the epoxy then.

The acid I was checking out at ACE was quikrete, was $80/gallon and covered 300-400 sq feet and the sealer was the same price and covered 200-300sq feet. At this point, it looks like everything is the same. The only thing I did not like about the acid, was that you had to clean it up after you put it down. I think that it would also require a lot more taping off, since it would be sprayed instead of rolled.

k20z1
2012-03-28, 02:27 PM
Just so you know, epoxy ain't a walk in the park either. Your garage is going to be out of commission for 7-8 days.

First you have to clean really well w/ a degreaser. That involves lots of hosing and squeegeeing.

Then you have to acid etch. Generally you mix small batches in a plastic watering can and pour onto a 10'x5' or so area. Let sit 3-4 minutes until bubbling stops. Sprinkle w/ baking soda to neutralize, hose off.

Let dry 24 hrs.

1st color coat.

Let cure 24 hrs.

2nd color coat.

Let cure 24 hrs.

Clear coat.

Let cure min 4 days before vehicle/heavy item traffic.

DIY always has tradeoffs.....

69Mach351
2012-03-28, 04:18 PM
Yeah. I have done the epoxy before, but only lived in the house for 2 more years. It held up very well for the minimal effort that it took. I did not clear coat it though. That is why I was looking for someone that had more time with it.

Days down is not a huge deal right now. I sold one car, so I have two cars in a three car garage. I could do it in sections where the seems meet if I had to.