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Unread 2015-09-25, 11:35 PM   #76
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Gonna be one sweet Restomod
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Unread 2015-09-28, 08:10 PM   #77
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Got the front clip off tonight in perpetration of pulling the subframe to get it cleaned up and new bushings installed. Then I'll bolt up the BRP Hotrods mounts and be able to easily set the LS in. My co-worker talked to the guy that is going to build the trans today and there will be a bit before he can get to the 4L80, which is fine as I don't really see the car being ready to fire until early next year.

Sucks to see the cause of the rust in the fenders is a pack rat nest that held moisture from what I can tell.



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Unread 2015-09-28, 08:18 PM   #78
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You need some hd degreaser and a power washer.
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Unread 2015-09-28, 08:26 PM   #79
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You need some hd degreaser and a power washer.
Have both, already hit the subframe once. Once it's out I'll really get it well then hit it with some paint or Chassis Saver.

Haven't really decided if it needs chassis saver as it really isn't rusty at all. Probably would be fine with some primer and satin black rattle can.
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Unread 2015-09-28, 08:35 PM   #80
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There's some German shit scooby suggested, works wonders.
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Unread 2015-09-30, 09:43 AM   #81
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Have both, already hit the subframe once. Once it's out I'll really get it well then hit it with some paint or Chassis Saver.

Haven't really decided if it needs chassis saver as it really isn't rusty at all. Probably would be fine with some primer and satin black rattle can.
Just use POR15 and be done.
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Unread 2015-09-30, 09:49 AM   #82
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Just use POR15 and be done.
Chassis Saver is the same idea, but a lot of people like it better from what I have read.

Edit: The shop I ordered my Chassis Saver actually got it in now, so I'll go that route.
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Unread 2016-01-18, 08:45 PM   #83
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Current state of the car. Subframe is off getting powder coated, should have it back this week or next. Cam is in the engine, f-body pan is on.

Pretty much need to order:
Brake lines, front brakes (calipers, rotors, pads), rear end stuff (pinion seal, wheel bearings, etc.), new bushings for the front suspension, fuel pump, fuel line, etc.

I'm going to be pushing it to make it for the Power Tour this June, but I have it set. The seat frames just got blasted so I'll paint them and take them to my upholstery guy, hopefully this weekend.

Excuse the trash, roommate did shocks and such on my old Volvo and hasn't tossed the boxes yet.
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Unread 2016-01-19, 02:14 AM   #84
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See you at the Tour!


And your mess isn't so bad. Here's where mine is at right now:


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Unread 2016-01-20, 05:12 PM   #85
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See you at the Tour!


And your mess isn't so bad. Here's where mine is at right now:
You'll see me on the Tour whether the car gets done or not, but I will sure as hell work to get it going.

Got the subframe back from the powder coater, glad I decided to go that route:


Ordered my water pump and such as it was about all I was lacking for my accessories now. Found an OEM dash pad on eBay I won the auction to today. Need to figure out suspension, but I work a conference in LA next week and will talk to some people while out there.

Ordered my Dakota Digital gauge setup. They have a module that takes the data from my OBD-2 port and makes it easy to get everything going without having to tap and run separate sending units on the LS.

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Unread 2016-01-20, 07:50 PM   #86
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cannot wait to see this all come together
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Unread 2016-01-20, 09:47 PM   #87
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So jelly!
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Unread 2016-01-20, 11:27 PM   #88
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Good choice on the gauges. I'm planning on a VHX set for my truck. Anxious to see how the BIM box works out. Sure looks like it will make it way easier.

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You'll see me on the Tour whether the car gets done or not, but I will sure as hell work to get it going.

Got the subframe back from the powder coater, glad I decided to go that route:


Ordered my water pump and such as it was about all I was lacking for my accessories now. Found an OEM dash pad on eBay I won the auction to today. Need to figure out suspension, but I work a conference in LA next week and will talk to some people while out there.

Ordered my Dakota Digital gauge setup. They have a module that takes the data from my OBD-2 port and makes it easy to get everything going without having to tap and run separate sending units on the LS.

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Unread 2016-01-21, 09:56 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squeaky192 View Post
Chassis Saver is the same idea, but a lot of people like it better from what I have read.

Edit: The shop I ordered my Chassis Saver actually got it in now, so I'll go that route.
Chassis Saver is the way to go. POR is trash IMO. They also make the Chassis Saver in "Show Car" mix, which is even better looking.
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Unread 2016-01-21, 10:23 AM   #90
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Chassis Saver is the way to go. POR is trash IMO. They also make the Chassis Saver in "Show Car" mix, which is even better looking.
I ended up just powder coating the subframe, but might use the chassis saver on the control arms and such if I stick with the factory stamped steel ones.
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Unread 2016-01-22, 08:55 AM   #91
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I ended up just powder coating the subframe, but might use the chassis saver on the control arms and such if I stick with the factory stamped steel ones.
I was thinking about ripping the front sub frame off of my '78. Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there only 6 bolts holding it together (might be 4?).

Also, did you/have you noticed any warping since you pulled it off? Knowing me, if I were to pull it off it would take me months to get it all back together; might be a good idea to reinforce things for the time gap I'm thinking about. F-Bodies are habitually weak along the roofline and B-Pillar as it is.

Thinking Ls3 with a pro charger a T-56.
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Unread 2016-01-22, 09:14 AM   #92
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I was thinking about ripping the front sub frame off of my '78. Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there only 6 bolts holding it together (might be 4?).

Also, did you/have you noticed any warping since you pulled it off? Knowing me, if I were to pull it off it would take me months to get it all back together; might be a good idea to reinforce things for the time gap I'm thinking about. F-Bodies are habitually weak along the roofline and B-Pillar as it is.

Thinking Ls3 with a pro charger a T-56.
I haven't seen anyone report with issue of warping when removing their subframe. Join the NastyZ28.com forum or the NastyZ28 group on Facebook, lots of good info there.

It depends how you decide to do it. Personally, I would do like I did and take the front clip off as one piece, which removes the 2 front subframe bolts which hold the radiator support in place. After that there are 2 subframe bolts at the firewall, and two towards the back underneath the car.

Buy PB Blaster and start spraying them down now if you intend to. They are just square cage nuts. 3 of my 4 (the 2 under the car and the 1 passenger side firewall) came out like nothing. The driver side firewall wanted to spin and kept trying to break the cage that held the square nut in place. After some heat, more PB, anger, and Vice grips, I was able to get it out.

If you have issues with the rear ones, it's a real pain in the ass because they are still a cage nut, but do access them you have to either cut a bit of the floor on the interior, or there are some creative ways to get to them from underneath.
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Unread 2016-01-22, 01:30 PM   #93
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If it were a convertible, I'd probably run some cross braces if one was taking it down to the body. Hardtop cars should be fine.
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Unread 2016-01-22, 04:48 PM   #94
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Got my suspension and brake lines ordered from Custom Work Performance.

Will be a 1.5/2" drop front and rear, new shocks, springs, etc. All new bushings, all new steering components. Gonna keep my factory stamped control arms for now.

Got all new hard line for the brakes, braided steel lines, a new master/booster/proportioning valve, etc.

Still need to order my converter and flex plate, along with tires and all the little odd and end stuff that will nickel and dime me to death.
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Unread 2016-01-22, 08:34 PM   #95
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Are you doing Poly bushings or stock rubber?
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Unread 2016-01-22, 08:52 PM   #96
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Are you doing Poly bushings or stock rubber?
Poly subframe, rubber everything else for now.

Everyone says to go rubber or step up to Delrin, I'm gonna go with rubber for now, then do delrin whenever i go tubular control arms and such.

For now I just want to drive it and do burnouts. I doubt I'll autocross it or throw it into corners, so no reason to blow all my money on suspension to where I won't have enough to get it going.
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Unread 2016-02-29, 09:29 PM   #97
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I'm pretty terrible at keeping this updated, that or really slow at getting shit done. Or a little of both.

My office is filled with parts at this point, Dakota Digital gauges, new dash, brake lines, EFI fuel tank & pump, etc., have all shown up.

Current state of the car:


I'm currently waiting for my solid aluminum bushings for the cal-tracs, then I'll be able to get the leafs in and the rear end up.

To no surprise, plans keep on changing, and I am going with a Strange 9", 3.70 gears, etc. Need to order my brakes from Speedway this week.


Trans is done (4L80), and my converter (Circle D 3200) is in my office. Need to order my cooler, but I plan to mate the 80 to the engine and drop it in for lining up of the mounts when the rear end is in. After that, I'll pull it back out, put the front suspension (all rebuilt and ready) back on, and get the firewall painted decent.


Got a set of early OEM Z28 wheels, so they are going to go get blasted and powder coated close to the original textured/flat gray.


So, lots of parts to go on, but I'm seeing progress.
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Unread 2016-02-29, 09:43 PM   #98
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Looking good. Should be a fun little restomod to cruise around in.
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Unread 2016-03-02, 03:31 PM   #99
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Dropped the wheels off at the powder coater yesterday, went with a textured grey similar to factory.

Cal-trac bushings should be in tomorrow or Friday, so I'll hopefully have the rear end back in Saturday and get the motor set in so I can measure for my driveshaft.
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Unread 2016-03-02, 08:04 PM   #100
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clicking right along, i dig it
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